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Samhain Colcannon

By Steven P.
(Originally published 1990 Samhain and 1998 Samhain)

1 part onion, chopped
2 parts potato, cubed (I leave the skins on)
2 parts cabbage, chopped
vegetable oil (or butter)
too much salt
too much ground black pepper

Fry the onions in enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. (You'll want to use a non-stick or very well seasoned surface.) Stir periodically until the onions caramelize (i.e. turn dark brown; the darker, the more flavorful. I usually draw the line a black and crispy onions, but suit yourself).

Meanwhile, in a large pot, steam – or traditionally boil – the cabbage and potatoes, until the cabbage is cooked through and you can pierce the potatoes with a fork. Drain and mash them together, with enough of the cooking water to produce the consistency of mashed potatoes. When the onions have caramelized, add the potato-cabbage mash, and season with salt and pepper (be heavy handed). Fry, stirring continuously, for half an hour or so, until the house is filled with the fragrance of it and the entire mass sticks to itself.

Turn out into your finest serving dish and add the divinatory tokens – Samhain being a time of divination, it's traditional to hide tokens in the Colcannon: a coin (for money), a ring (for handfasting), a thimble (trad. Spinsterhood; I say creativity), a tiny doll (for a baby!). In Scotland, they add a wishbone and a – presumably miniature – horseshoe as well. Place in a buttered, covered casserole dish and keep warm in the oven. I myself like to eat it as is, but some eat every forkfull dipped in a pool of butter melted in the center of each mounded portion.

(Variation: Highlander's Colcannon. - Cook and mash 1 part carrots along with the potatoes and cabbage. This adds a touch of sweetness and a nice Halloweenish color to the dish.)

Colcannon is a lot of work to make, so you might as well make a lot of it. Believe me, people will want seconds and thirds. Be sure to set aside a healthy portion for the honored ancestors; and may someone do the same for you someday.

In the words of an auld Scots Samhain blessing:

Gum fosgladh dorus na bliadhna uibhe chum sith, sonas, is samchair.

“May the door of the coming year open for you to peace, happiness, and quiet contentment.”

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